Showing posts with label Tips or Tricks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tips or Tricks. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

TWENTY THINGS EVERY YOUNG BIRD HUNTER SHOULD KNOW

This is a post written by Andy M. Wayment. It is a really well written post that would benefit any hunter but especially for a young hunters first lessons. In case you don't know Andy, his blog is called Upland Equations.  I Follow Andy because he is a great outdoor writer and photographer. He has bird dogs and hunts them every chance he gets.  He posts good stories and nice pics with them. It's a great blog to follow. Please check it out!

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TWENTY THINGS EVERY YOUNG BIRD HUNTER SHOULD KNOW

By Andrew M. Wayment

1. Wing shooting is challenging, but fun! Missing is part of the process. Don’t get discouraged! After all, this is supposed to be fun. Shooting is 90% mental (or rather instinctual) and 10% mechanical. If you are missing, don’t stress out or over-think it. Just relax, believe in yourself, have fun, follow your instincts, and you will start hitting.

2. You don’t aim a shotgun, you point it! Keep both eyes open and point the gun where you are looking with your cheek firmly planted on the butt of the stock of the gun.

3. A shooting slump will not last forever. This too shall pass! Keep in mind that it is almost impossible to shoot ahead of a bird. If you are missing, it’s because you are most likely shooting behind. Just keep swinging and you’ll eventually catch up.

4. Likewise, a hot streak of shooting― while fun― will not last forever either. If you average one out of every four or five birds you shoot at, you’re doing as well as most other hunters out there.

5. Wild birds are infinitely better than pen-raised. While training with and hunting pen-raised birds may be fun, it can never supplant the real thing. There's just no comparison.

6. Understand that Nature’s way is for game to be scarce. On most days, you will not find an overabundance of birds. This fact has led to the common expression, “sometimes birds, sometimes feathers.” Also, this fact is what makes those days of abundance that much more special. If you find a bird bonanza, count your blessings, say a prayer of thanks, and savor the moment.

7. Boot leather gets birds. Those hunters willing to hike higher or farther will find and take more birds in the long run.

8. Remember all life is sacred. Respect the great game birds we pursue. Never take more than what you are allowed by law. If you are fortunate to take one of these great birds, don’t just stuff them indifferently into your game bag, but always smooth their feathers and admire their beauty. If you wound one, go to great lengths to bring that bird to hand. Always eat what you kill with gratitude.

A beautiful gray phase ruffed grouse from Idaho. The birds are just a bonus.






9. Learn more about the special birds you hunt. Learning about the game birds you pursue, their life cycle, habitat, and food, will not only help you to find more birds, but will enhance your enjoyment of the hunt and appreciation for the birds.

10. The key to wild birds is HABITAT. The timeless words of the movie, The Field of Dreams, “If you build it, they will come” are appropriate for bird hunting. In other words, if you create the habitat, the birds will come.

11. Give back to Nature. Support organizations like Pheasants Forever, The Ruffed Grouse Society, the North American Grouse Partnership, Quail Unlimited, The Nature Conservancy, and the numerous land trusts that are creating and preserving habitat. We can’t succeed without the help of such organizations.

12. Be the kind of hunting partner you want to have. No one likes a game hog, a braggart, a drill sergeant, a whiner, or someone who is dangerous with their gun. A good, considerate, ethical hunting companion makes a day afield that much better. Whereas, a bad companion leaves a bad taste in your mouth for days to come.

13. Take pictures and write in a journal. The hunting memories that you are making right now will become little treasures that you will remember in days to come. Be sure to take pictures and write down in a journal your experiences and I promise that those treasures will only grow more priceless over the years.

Me and my hunting buddies.






14. The man and dog partnership is the height of hunting. As Burton L. Spiller wrote, “I believe it is the inalienable right of every boy to have a dog for his very own, and if he is to hunt with one later in life the early lessons he learns will be invaluable to him.” The companionship of a good dog makes the hunt so much more special. It’s hard to describe, but the relationship between a man (or boy) and his dog is almost spiritual. A hunting dog is a link to the natural world that man cannot have on his own. You will find that when you and your dog hunt together with a singularity of purpose, the master and canine element fades away and you and your dog become partners and buddies. Nothing in our outdoor sports quite compares with that bond.

15. Bird hunting makes you see and recognize unappreciated beauty. Bird hunting takes you to places and makes you see things that you would have never seen unless you were afield pursuing a bird. You will begin to find beauty in places that the world cannot appreciate; weedy, unkempt, tangled, thick, gnarly places, will soon take on a tantalizing appeal.

16. Name your coverts. Naming your covers, or coverts (those secret hunting places of your heart), after a prominent geographic feature or a special experience is half the fun. Pretty soon your covers will have names like: The Royal Macnab, Grouseketeer Ridge, Sunrise Ridge, Hope’s Hill, Grouse Springs, Grouse Rock, The Mini Flat Tops, The Lloyd Christmas Cover, The Sunset Strip, Madman Land, The Trail to Quail, The Knife’s Edge, or even better.

17. Ask for permission to hunt and respect the landowner’s property. Remember that if you never ask a landowner for a permission to hunt good looking cover on private property, the answer is always “no.” On the flip side, remember that if you don’t ask a landowner for permission to hunt his property, but do it anyway, the answer in the future will always be “no.” Most landowners respect a hunter who will come to his front door, look him in the eye, and ask for permission because he knows that this this hunter will respect his property. Respect a landowner’s property, his cattle and horses, his fences and gates and you will be a welcome guest for years to come.

18. Learn the value of classic bird hunting books. In time, you will come to learn that a good book about bird hunting, especially in the off season, is almost as good as hunting itself. Seek out the classics like Burton L. Spiller, George Bird Evans, Corey Ford, Gene Hill, William G. Tapply and others. You won’t regret it!




Two pups trying figure out what it's all about.






19. It’s all about the dogs! The time will come when watching your hunting dogs do what they were born and bred to do will mean more to you than the killing of birds. Remember that, at the end of the day, the birds are just the bonus!

20. You hold the future of bird hunting in your hands. Whether your own children and grandchildren will be able to hunt is up to you. You must take action to preserve this way of life both legally and to preserve the prerequisite habitat for birds to thrive. As for potential future hunters, like your own experience with your mentor, you must be the one to show them the way. 
 
Be sure to check out Andy's blog at :
Upland Equations


 

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Food Guarding By Puppies

What is food guarding?

It can be brought on by any situation in which a puppy feels like he must compete for his food, or if the dog thinks there is not enough food. There by, causing him to "guard" or "protect" his food bowl.  Some experts suggest that feeding only once a day, may trigger this behavior. I tend to agree with that, that is my opinion and not everyone agrees.


 

This usually doesn't happen in a litter until the puppies are older or even in their new permanent homes after the age of 7 or 8 weeks old, if it happens at all. When the dog is eating and someone, or another dog, gets too close, he may growl or even bite. This is food guarding.


If you have a new puppy and you'd like to test him, or "condition" him, here's how to do it safely.

There are hundreds of little things you can do to "condition" your puppy for good responses. This is one. When you feed you puppy, "give" him the food.  Make him sit then present him with it. Making him work for his food will earn you his respect.  Then give him a few minutes to get into eating.


  Do not put your face close to the bowl!
Do not lean over your dog.

 

Use one of those fake hands with a stick attached, or one of those back scratchers, and gently grab your dogs bowl and slide it out from under him. Note his reaction. Was it good or bad? If he growled, or bit the hand, that's not good. He's guarding his food. Seek a solution now. If he just followed the bowl and didn't get upset, he's probably not a problem. Try it several times, to be sure.  And at different ages. And of course, because he behaves with you, doesn't mean he will if a stranger or a child tries to do the same thing.


Never leave a child alone around a feeding dog.

Food guarding can be a serious problem if allowed to progress.  Remember, YOU are the leader and should be respected as such. You should not be growled at by your own dog...for any reason. And you should never have to fear your dog. And if you do, they will know and take advantage of it, ultimately making the situation worse. Someone will get hurt.

I have decided to incorporate this into the daily routine of taking care of puppies when we have a litter on the ground. We do a lot of things to "condition" good responses and this will be a good one to add. Amazing how one little thing can make such a big difference, but we are always looking for new ways to help us produce healthy, happy puppies.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

Mushers Secret - No Secret Anymore!

Back in December I did a post about dogs getting snow and ice build up between their toes and how this can be painful for your pet.
Click here to see the original post: Possible Solution/Last Post/Snowballs Between Toes.

In that post, I suggested a product called, Mushers Secret. I never got the opportunity to try this product but one of my Followers,  ArtOC, has.

Art lives in Maryland where they get their fair share of snow and ice. They also use salt on the roads there and this can irritate a dogs pads with regular exposure.
Art tried Mushers Secret on his Gordon Setter, Erin. Her long furry feathering would get tons of snowballs when she played out in the snow, one of her favorite pass times, according to Art.
Art sent me the picture below. As you can see for yourself,  NO SNOWBALLS on her feet!


Miss ERIN


From ArtOC:

"We finally got a decent snowfall and Erin was just as excited as she could be to go out bird bowling and generally having a good time in the snow.  Just like a kid, she would stay out until she was so cold she was shaking.  I saw your plug for the Mushers and had been tying to buy if for some time but it was always out of stock.  I just received it before the storm and treated Erin's feet.  As you can see from the attached photo, she is covered with snow balls but her feet are not affected.  I also noticed that when we went for a walk the salt didn't sting her feet like it usually does.  This stuff really works!"


Don't you love it when you find a good product?! If you'd like to try Mushers Secret click on the ad to the right for a link to Amazon. This is one of the best prices I've found.

Thanks Art and Erin for sharing your experience with this product. I am always happy to show case a good product with a reliable review.

If you have a great product that you'd like to share with the rest of us dog owners,  please feel free to comment with your suggestion.

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Thursday, January 13, 2011

A Warm Bed For A Cold Night

Do you live in an area where the temperature drops below freezing often and especially at night?


Do you leave your dog in an outside kennel over night?
If so, here is a short list of things you can do to help insure that your dog is keeping dry, and warm enough to stay out for an extended period safely.
  1. Make sure your dogs have a decent house to sleep in. It should not be big, or overly tall. It should be just big enough for your dog to stand up in, turn around in, and lay in comfortably. Being just enough room for your dog, will allow his body heat to become trapped inside, and will help to keep him warmer.
  2. It should be insulated.  Even some of the plastic ones have insulation.
  3. The house should be placed in a barn or outdoor building protecting it from the wind, rain, snow, etc., preferably with a eastern/southern exposure.
  4. The house should be placed on a platform which will keep it off the damp ground.
  5. Clean straw or hay should be used for bedding. It dries quickly and is soft for them to sleep on. Cloth bedding gets wet and stays wet, when outside in cold temps. It will get wet, then moldy and that's unhealthy for your dog.
  6. If you can put a flap on the door to prevent drafts, that's a huge help.
  7. And last, if you have really cold, sub-zero weather, you can buy heated pads that can be used outside, but not in the wet weather. 
Our old barn is our kennel. Inside the barn is the individual kennel runs,  which have a run leading to outside. There is a door for each that can be locked closed when it snows hard or temp drops. Each kennel has a heating pad for them when it is very cold, like  below 20 degrees. Dan has added countless "flaps" to the doors of the houses only to come out the next day and find them ripped to shreds. Yep, it seems that a Gordon Setter likes a room with a view! When it drops below about 10 degrees, we bring them up to the house where we have a "puppy whelping" room built off the side of the house. Inside, we can house 4 dogs in a heated room. Of course, as I said this is the "puppy whelping" room that doubles for emergency dog kennels.  We also have 2 kennels inside the house for 2 more dogs. Up here in Montana, it can drop to 20 or 30 degrees below zero in a day and that's dangerous weather for your dogs. With 5 dogs we have to be ready.

Make sure your dog has the protection he needs to stay warm and safe through these frosty cold nights of winter.

Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Snow Between The Toes - Simple Solution

This is not our dog. We would never let one of ours get this bad. This pic came from Google and is just being used to make a point.
A while back I did a post on snowballs between the toes of our dogs feet, called : Snowballs Between The Toes. One dog in particular in our kennel, Gracie, tends to get snowballs between her toes. I've done a lot of research on this and this is what I have found.


The predominant reason, and the most simple one, is that the hair between the toes gets too long and collects snow. The more snow the toes collect, the wider the toes spread. The wider the toes spread, the more snow packs in between.  This isn't good for several reasons.

First, it's not comfortable for your dog. Imagine having snow and ice between your toes!
Second, as it builds up, it forces the toes to spread as the dog walks. Long toe nails are also a problem. This can damage your dogs feet and cause them to walk on the backs perpetuating the problem.
Third, having long hair on the bottom of the feet makes it more difficult to get good traction. This could led to any number of muscular or joint injuries.

So what can you do about it? Well, the biggest thing is to keep the hair between the toes and on the bottoms of their feet cut very short.  If you live somewhere where the temperatures are extreme in the winter, you can apply oils and products like Mushers Secret to help keep the snow from sticking and building up into a giant snowball. These can also keep the dogs pads from drying out and cracking open.

I haven't tried the Mushers Secret. After eliminating the problem by cutting, and keeping the hair short, I really had no need for it.

When you're out hunting this time of year, remember your dogs needs, and look out for them too!

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Snowballs Between The Toes

I got a call from Justin  a few nights ago. Justin lives in  Colorado with his 9 mo. old Gordon,  Benelli. They hunt Blue Grouse on some of the highest ridges in the Rockie Mts. Up in the Stratosphere. Oxygen required. Benelli has a problem with ice and snow build up on his paws. It interferes with  hunting and can cause raw spots between the toes.

Booties are the obvious solution, but in snow the dog often leaves with 4 boots and returns with a lesser  number. My nylon dog boots have a slick bottom and would not do well on ice. I have heard of people using Vaseline or Pam non stick spray on the dogs feet [ especially between the toes] to prevent ice sticking, but have never tried it.  I always carry three dogs and rotate them. When dog #1 gets all balled up with snow, it goes into a crate to thaw out and #2 dog hits the ground. By the time dog #3 has hunted , dog #1 is ready to roll again.

Does anyone have a trick or advice for Justin to that would solve this problem?

Posted By: DWT

Friday, April 9, 2010

A "Get 'er Done" Bath Trick!

When you bathe your dog, do you have trouble with him shaking off every few minutes, before you are done? Slinging shampoo and suds and water everywhere? Well here's a little trick I learned that really works, to stop it.
If you're like me, it takes two to wash the dog anyway. One to hold him, and the other one to scrub and rinse him.
If you have someone to help you hold your dog, have them take his front paw in hand and just hold it up, about chest level. I have been told that it is impossible for a dog to shake while his front leg is being held up. Their front legs are their balancing point. I have used this method for several years now and have never had a dog shake while we were holding his leg up. It really works!

Remember though, as soon as you put his paw down, he is going to shake off all that water!

Sunday, September 6, 2009

HOW TO FIELD DRESS A GROUSE IN 6 SECONDS!

With Grouse, you only keep the breasts.
So, follow these simple
directions
for a swift removal.


All Photo's By: Karen Thomason

1. Lay the grouse on the ground, breast up, wings spread.
Place each of your feet on a wing, straddling the grouse.





2. Take both grouse legs firmly in hand, close to the birds body,
Pull Upwards until the only thing laying on the ground is the
breast with 2 wings attached, as in picture.






3. Use pliers or a leatherman tool to clip the wings.
And there you have it!






Questions? Leave me a comment.